Time for module 9! From now on, for the next year and a half, you will be sailing with us through the Mediterranean Sea. This season, our goal is Greece, so we will sail east starting from sailing Costa del Sol.
Currents in the Strait of Gibraltar
In the last module, we wrote about crossing the Strait of Gibraltar. This is a unique place on the map of Europe because the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea mix here. When sailing through the strait to the east, we had 2-3 knots of current, which gave us extra speed. The currents here are always easterly, which is caused by the constant flow of water from the Atlantic Ocean towards the Mediterranean Sea. Why is this happening?
Evaporation of the Mediterranean Sea greatly exceeds the inflow of fresh water from the rivers. The water lost must be constantly replenished through the Strait of Gibraltar to prevent the sea level from lowering. Additionally, evaporation from such a large area of water as the Mediterranean Sea causes an increase in the salinity of surface waters. As a result, salty waters are sinking deeper. In order to equalize the salinity of both basins, the Mediterranean releases deep salt water into the Atlantic. However, this happens at very great depths, which does not directly affect navigation through the Strait. Despite the constant equalization of salinity, the Mediterranean always maintains a higher salinity level than the Atlantic.
To sum up, the surface currents in the Strait of Gibraltar always occur towards the east and are responsible for equalizing the water level. The deep currents push the water masses westward in an attempt to equalize the salinity.
This circulation causes the waters of the Mediterranean to be completely renewed once every 80 to 100 years! This is an incredibly short time for such a huge volume of water.
Sailing Costa Del Sol
We do not stay long in La Linea, a Spanish town on the southern coast, close to the border with Gibraltar. Although this is our second visit to this place, we still have not visited the Rock of Gibraltar! Once again, we put this attraction off for later. We are in a hurry because our friends are already waiting for us in Malaga. They will join us for a few days sailing Costa del Sol and we’ll spend some time with them on land.
We are convinced that after passing Gibraltar we will finally not have to worry about orcas. Unfortunately, it turns out that for the first time in 20 years orcas have appeared in the Mediterranean Sea. Three interactions with yachts have just been recorded. So sailing Costa del Sol, we continue to take all precautions, but fortunately we only see a pod of pilot whales in the distance.
New Anchor Chain
We order new chain in Estepona
Before reaching Malaga, we stop in Estepona, another picturesque town to see while sailing Costa del Sol. A new anchor chain has been waiting for us in the local marine shop for several months. We ordered it here because of the price, availability of a product from a specific manufacturer and the G40 class. In addition, when ordering chains longer than 50 m, you often receive two pieces connected by a special link. We wanted to avoid it. In Estepona it was available in one piece.
Why do we need a new chain?
Changing the chain to a longer and thicker one was a priority for us. The previous owners were perfectly happy with 40m when sailing around Scandinavia on holiday and spending most of their time in marinas. However, we plan to spend most of our time at anchor, and a longer chain will allow us to anchor in slightly deeper waters. Thicker, 10mm links mean greater strength (it’s not just about strength, but that’s a topic for a separate post).
Anchoring rules
As I have already mentioned here, we always use at least three times as much chain as the depth at which we anchor. So at 5 meters we will use at least 15 m of chain, but to anchor at 20 m, for example, we will need as much as 60. Additionally, depending on the weather, location or type of bottom, we often use even more. Our new chain will be 80 m, which means that from now on we will be able to anchor at a depth of 25 m! This happens rarely, because as a rule we choose shallower places, but it certainly widens the options. Especially when in the peak season the bays are full of boats.
Ground tackle on Malo 39
In Estepona, chain replacement is hassle-free, and the sailing shop collects the old chain from us. As expected, the longer and thicker chain barely fits in the anchor locker. Unfortunately, the anchoring system on the Malo 39 is, in our opinion, the weakest point of this yacht. The hidden windlass mechanism may not clutter the deck, but it takes up valuable space for the chain inside the locker. Redesigning this system is a very large and expensive project. From what we know, no owner of Malo has undertaken this so far. So all that remains is to accept that and patiently lay down the chain with the boat hook while lifting the anchor.
Washing machine – goodbye!
Here we also leave our tourist washing machine, which has completely failed our test. Unfortunately, the water consumption in relation to the amount of laundry we were able to do in it did not work on the yacht. So now we don’t have any washing machine – at least for now.
Sailing Costa del Sol to Malaga
Satisfied with our new purchase, we continue sailing Costa del Sol to Malaga. Since there is no suitable place for us to moor in the city itself, we choose the Benalmadena marina located further west. From the beginning, we do not like the place. Although we dock deep in the port, the incoming swell cause the yacht to jerk on the mooring lines so much that it is impossible to walk on the boat. We secure the yacht with fenders, put special shock absorbers on the lines, but the improvement is small.
Visiting Ronda, Spain
We explore Malaga with friends and then rent a car to go to Ronda, Grenada and the Alhambra Castle.
We had been to Ronda before, but it didn’t bother us at all. It is a very picturesque town in Andalusia, known for its location on top of high cliffs. The magnificent view of the El Tajo gorge and the Puente Nuevo bridge attracts tourists from all over the world. The Puente Nuevo bridge, built in the 18th century, is the city’s icon. Although today it serves as a representative and scenic place, it was not always like that. After the bridge was completed, the city authorities used its monumental structure as a place to carry out death sentences. In those days, executions were part of public spectacles that were not only intended to punish criminals. They also served as a warning to others. Those sentenced to death were often thrown into the El Tojo gorge. As a result of these dramatic events, the bridge gained a dark reputation, which is still remembered today. Similar events took place during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939).
Visiting Alhambra Castle
The next day we go to Grenada, a 1.5 hour drive from Malaga. We plan to visit the Alhambra Castle, often considered the best preserved and most stunning example of Arab architecture in Europe. The place enchants us and ends up on my personal list of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen in my life.
Built in the 13th century by the Nasrid dynasty, the castle served as a fortress and royal palace for centuries. The Alhambra impresses with its interiors, filled with intricately carved arabesques, mosaics and subtle details. Here, every wall is a work of art. In the gardens, on the other hand, we can admire perfect alleys, fountains and floral arrangements.
The fact that we can still admire this place today is thanks to Queen Isabella of Castile. After the end of the Reconquista and the recapture of the last Muslim bastion in Europe – the Emirate of Grenada in 1492, the Catholic ruler recognized the cultural value of the castle. She decided not to destroy it, but to preserve it as proof of the triumph over the Muslims and a testament to Spain’s multicultural heritage. Parts of the Alhambra were transformed into Christian chapels and royal chambers. It is thanks to this decision that the Alhambra survived, remaining one of the most exceptional monuments of Islamic architecture in the world.
The castle tour was organized in such a way that you don’t feel the presence of thousands of tourists who pour through the castle in the high season. We walk calmly, admire, take photos and don’t bump into each other. We highly recommend visiting this place if you are in the area and invite you to the small photo gallery below.
Sailing Costa del Sol to Marbella
Of course, we also do some sailing! We are taking friends on a three-day boat trip from Malaga to Marbella. We spend the first night at a very exposed anchorage by the beach. Unfortunately, the incoming swell ensures a sleepless night. We are sure that our guests will leave for the hotel as soon as possible in the morning, but to our surprise they bravely endure the difficulties of boatlife. In Marbella we stay at Marbella marina located very close to the city center. Here, similarly to Benalmadena, we dock stern to a not very appealing, high, concrete quay. After enjoying the luxuries of Marbella, probably the most posh resort on the Costa del Sol, it’s time to head back to Malaga.
Unfortunately, having no choice, we stop in Benalmadena again. The swell in the port doesn’t improve. We stay with our guests until a weather window appears that will allow us to sail west. And so, one early morning we set sail again, deprived of two damaged mooring lines, but richer by wonderful memories with our loved ones.
Sailing Costa del Sol – Summary
I thought that in this module we would take you all the way to the Balearic Islands. However, judging by the length of the text, we will stop our story here so as not to make you fall asleep 🙂 In the next module we will take you further along the coast of Spain to one of our favorite anchorages of the season, we will visit the historic Cartagena, where we will have an unpleasant adventure while leaving. And maybe, finally, we’ll reach the Balearic Islands. Stay with us!
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