In the last module, published at the end of last year, we wrote about our journey from mainland Spain to the Balearic Islands. You can find it here. In this Module, the 11th, we continue our voyage—we leave Menorca to sail from Sardinia to Sicily!
Departure towards Sardinia
We depart for Sardinia from the southeastern tip of Menorca, anchoring at Cala Biniacolla. The journey ahead is about 200 nautical miles. It won’t be a fast sail, as light winds are forecasted. However, we don’t want to wait for better weather because the Mistral is predicted to arrive in a few days. By then, we want to be safely anchored in a sheltered bay.
Mistral Wind in The Med
Mistral is a dry and cold northwesterly wind that often occurs in the Mediterranean, particularly around Sardinia. It forms due to local air circulation patterns, appearing when a high-pressure system develops over the eastern Atlantic and a low-pressure system moves across Western Europe. This setup accelerates air as it rushes down the Rhône Valley. The Mistral is most common in winter and spring, bringing sudden cooling and strong gusts, reaching up to 40–50 knots. It’s definitely not the kind of weather you’d want to encounter at sea.
Menorca to Sardinia Leg
The journey proceeds without major surprises. We try to sail further north, as winds are weaker to the south. It takes us about a day and a half to cover the 200-mile distance. Night watches are much easier this time because we have a third crew member—our nephew—who joined us for his sailing practice. Having an additional crew member makes a significant difference, allowing each of us to rest for 6 hours instead of the usual 3. We arrive in Sardinia at night. As mentioned in Module 10, we always anchor in large, open bays with no obstacles when arriving after dark. This time is no exception—we drop anchor at a spacious anchorage near Portoscuso. The plan is simple: rest, recover, and decide where to head next after some sleep.
Sailing in Sardinia
Calasetta
After a short rest and weather analysis, it turns out the Mistral is delayed. This gives us more time to explore Sardinia’s southern coast before retreating to a safe bay. Initially, we move to an anchorage near the small town of Calasetta. It’s quite shallow and not particularly charming, but we need to restock supplies, so staying near a town is a must. Calasetta is smaller than expected, but we manage to find some good food and make small purchases. However, it takes visits to several tiny shops to complete our shopping list.
Anchoring at Porto Zafferano
For some time, we’ve been doing some research about two beautiful, large bays on the island’s southern coast—Porto Zafferano. However, they are military zones, and anchoring is officially prohibited. We discover that in the summer, the military tends to be more flexible as long as no military exercises are taking place. So, we decide to try our luck. Due to the wind direction, we head to the eastern bay first. It’s immediately clear that the summer anchoring ban doesn’t apply—dozens of yachts are here! The bay is shallow, spacious, and the turquoise water is dazzling. We decide to stay! Shortly after, we spot military RIBs conducting exercises in the bay. It seems they don’t mind the yachts. The large bay accommodates everyone—even the bulls leisurely strolling along the beach.
Line Splicing Job
While enjoying water sports and relaxation, we also take care of some boat projects. One long-pending job is replacing the old lines on our dinghy. As the dinghy was purchased second-hand, old lines had rotted and fallen apart. Without them, operating the dinghy is difficult, as there’s nothing to grip. Like many boat projects, I complete this one with the help of YouTube academy. Splicing the lines turns out to be simple and enjoyable, especially in such beautiful surroundings—it doesn’t even feel like work. Check out the results!
Porto Zafferano military zone
The next day, due to a change in wind direction, we move to the western side of the peninsula. It’s a short trip, but we’re reluctant to leave our current spot because it’s so pleasant. Upon arriving on the other side, we find other boats, but this time the military isn’t as accommodating. A military motorboat comes during the day, politely asking all yachts to leave the anchorage. We comply and sail eastward. Interestingly, as we leave the bay, we see new yachts arriving, anchoring, and staying. It seems the military clears the bay daily after which new unaware yachts arrive and stay.
Both anchorages are highly recommended if you plan to sail around Sardinia. Check recent comments on popular sailing apps for updates on restrictions. If the military remains “flexible,” these are stunning places to stop.
Cala di Piscinni
After leaving the bay, we search for our next stop. Sardinia is full of beautiful, sandy bays with turquoise water, so the task isn’t difficult. We choose Cala di Piscinni, another picturesque spot. We spend two days here, barely leaving the water and celebrating Tomek’s 40th birthday. No cake, no party, no presents—just free time, sunshine, water, and smiles! We’re also lucky to spot a small stingray while snorkeling—a rare sight in the Mediterranean. It’s our first and only encounter with a stingray in these waters. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to grab the GoPro, but I can make up for it with a photo of another, larger stingray we saw in Zanzibar 🙂
Sailing To Cagliari in Sardinia
Heading east on the way from Sardinia to Sicily, we decide to visit Cagliari, Sardinia’s capital and one of the largest ports in the Mediterranean. Cagliari is a city of rich history and charm, known for its scenic Castello district, where narrow streets lead to historic walls and a cathedral. We stay at Marina di Sant’Elmo, south of the city center. The marina lacks charm, with poor facilities and sanitary conditions, but it’s much cheaper than the other marina in the center. Since we have a shower on board, we’re not worried about hygiene issues.
Despite the intense heat, we go for a city walk. It’s challenging—the countless stairs, heated stones, and high temperatures quickly test our endurance. Our sightseeing turns into a short stroll.
Anchoring at Capo Carbonara
As the delayed Mistral finally approaches, we sail to Sardinia’s southeastern tip to shelter behind Capo Carbonara and wait out the worst of it. Our plan is to depart for Sicily as the wind subsides. Capo Carbonara offers a safe haven and is a good starting point for heading east. We spend almost four lazy days at anchor here, enduring wind gusts that jerk our boat and leave us utterly bored. Water sports are out of the question, boat works are impossible, and we’re tired of reading books. Going ashore isn’t an option either, as strong winds create significant waves. We impatiently wait for the wind to calm so we can move on from Sardinia to Sicily.
Sailing From Sardinia to Sicily
Finally, after nearly four days of waiting, the wind eases, and we set sail from Sardinia to Sicily. This is another longer passage, covering 160 nautical miles. It will take us less than a day and a half. Initially, we plan to reach Palermo to drop off our guest at the airport. However, after some analysis, we realize marina prices in Palermo are discouraging, and the anchorage isn’t ideal when guest has an early morning flight. Trapani, on Sicily’s western coast, proves to be a much better option, with a direct bus to the airport. We highly recommend this solution if you’re changing crew in Sicily.
Sardinia to Sicily – Arrival to Trapani
We dock at the small Marina Arturo Stabile, which serves a nearby shipyard. We often choose smaller, less popular marinas with modest infrastructure to save money. This is essential, as marina prices in the Mediterranean during the season are steep, sometimes exceeding €200 per night. These smaller marinas often require prior reservations via email or phone, as they aren’t listed on popular apps like Navily, but they’re usually worth the effort!
How Do We Wash Our Clothes?
Our first stop in Trapani is a laundromat. Since we currently don’t have a washing machine aboard Tranquility, we rely on laundromats in the places we visit. This system works well in Europe. We did have a simple, portable washing machine for a while, but it quickly proved impractical, taking up too much space and using too much water for the small loads it handled. While many sailors use such machines on their boats, it didn’t work for us. In the future, we might consider a standard washing machine. For now, we occasionally visit laundromats, where we catch up on reading, social media, or coffee while waiting.
Trapani, Sicily
Our last evening as a three-person crew is spent exploring the charming streets of Trapani. We enjoy wine straight from wooden barrels, delicious seafood, and cannoli. Trapani leaves a great impression on us. Little did we know that all of Sicily would captivate us so much that it would become one of our favorite destinations in Europe. At dawn, we bid farewell to our guest, congratulate him on completing his sailing practice, and return to our usual routine.
What’s Next?
After two intense weeks, we decide to take a short vacation, relaxing on the Egadi Islands west of Sicily. But that’s a story for another post, as their history, stunning landscapes, and sailing conditions certainly deserve their own write-up. See you on the Egadi Islands then!
No responses yet